How to Lay A Turf in the UK – A Detailed Questionnaire
What preparations are needed for the ground before laying turf?
How do I assess the soil quality and drainage?
Soil Quality: Test the soil by digging a small sample (approximately 15 cm deep). Most soils in the UK are composed of clay, loam, and/or sand. Loamy soil is ideal for turf, but clay soils (common in the UK) may need improvement for drainage. Use a soil pH testing kit (available at garden centres) to check pH—aim for 6.0–7.0. Adjust with lime if it is too acidic or sulphur if it is too alkaline.
Drainage: Dig a 30cm-deep hole, fill it with water, and observe the results. If it drains within 4 hours, drainage is good. Poor drainage (common in clay-heavy areas) may require adding grit or installing drainage pipes.
What tools and materials are required for ground preparation?
Tools: Spade, fork, rake, spirit level or plank, wheelbarrow, and a sharp knife or turf cutter
Materials: Topsoil (if needed), compost or organic matter, sharp sand or grit (for drainage), pre-turfing fertiliser (high in phosphorus), and weedkiller (glyphosate-based, if needed).
How do I clear existing grass, weeds, or debris?
Remove existing grass and weeds manually with a spade, or use a non-residual weedkiller like glyphosate (apply 2–3 weeks before preparation). Clear large stones, roots, and debris. For stubborn perennial weeds (e.g. bindweed), multiple applications of weedkiller may be necessary.
Should I level the ground, and how can I achieve a smooth surface?
Levelling is essential for a flat lawn. Use a spade and fork to break up compacted soil. Rake the surface level. Use a long plank or spirit level to check for evenness. Aim for a slight slope (1:100) for drainage on flat sites.
Do I need to add topsoil or compost, and how much?
If the soil is poor (e.g., heavy clay or very sandy), add 10–15 cm of high-quality topsoil. Add peat-free compost to improve the structure. For clay soils, incorporate sharp sand or grit (2–3kg per square metre). Spread evenly and compact lightly with a roller or by treading with your weight on your heels.
How do I choose the right turf for my garden in the UK?
What types of turf are suitable for the UK climate and soil conditions?
Hardwearing Turf: Contains ryegrass, ideal for family gardens with high foot traffic (e.g., Rolawn Medallion). It suits most UK soils and climates.
Fine Lawn Turf: Dwarf ryegrass or fescue blends for ornamental lawns. It is best for well-drained soils but is less durable and needs more maintenance.
Shade-Tolerant Turf: Fescue-heavy mixes for gardens with trees or buildings. Suitable for UK gardens with limited sun exposure.
Wildflower Turf: For eco-friendly lawns, though less practical for heavy use. Suits well-drained soils.
How do I decide between seeded lawns and turf?
Turf: Faster results (instant lawn), less weed competition, but more expensive. Best for quick establishment in spring or autumn.
Seeded Lawns: Cheaper but slower (6–12 months to establish). Risk of weeds and patchy growth. Best for large areas or budget projects.
For most UK gardeners, turf is the preferred option due to its reliability and speed
What factors should influence my choice of turf?
Foot Traffic: High-traffic areas (e.g. play areas) need durable ryegrass blends.
Shade: Shady gardens (common in urban UK) require fescue-heavy mixes.
Aesthetics: Fine turf for formal lawns, and wildflower turf for a natural look.
Maintenance: Low-maintenance blends (e.g., slow-growing grasses) suit busy gardeners.
Soil Type: Check with your supplier for recommendations on clay, loam, chalky or sandy soils.
What is the best time of year to lay turf in the UK?
How do seasonal weather conditions affect turf laying?
Spring (March-May): Ideal due to mild temperatures and regular rainfall. Turf roots establish well before the summer heat.
Autumn (September–October): Also excellent, with cooler weather and moist soil. Roots are established before winter dormancy.
Summer: Risky due to heat and drought. Requires intensive watering.
Winter: Avoid due to frost and waterlogging, which prevent root establishment.
Are there specific months to avoid?
Avoid November–February (frost risk) and July–August (heat/drought risk). Mid-autumn (October) or early spring (March) are generally the best option for most regions in the UK.
How do I properly lay the turf?
What is the correct method for laying turf rolls to ensure a seamless finish?
Start with fresh turf (delivered within 24–48 hours). Lay on prepared, moist soil. Roll out turf in straight lines, ensuring edges touch tightly without overlapping. Press down firmly to ensure soil contact.
How do I stagger the turf to avoid visible seams?
Lay turf like brickwork, staggering joints so each row’s seams are offset from the row below. This prevents visible lines and strengthens the lawn structure.
Should I start from a specific edge or corner of the garden?
Start along a straight edge (e.g., a fence or path) to keep lines neat. Work inward to avoid walking on freshly laid turf. Use a plank to distribute weight if you need to walk on it.
How do I cut and shape turf to fit around obstacles, such as trees or paths?
Use a sharp knife or turf cutter. Lay the turf over the obstacle, press gently to mark the shape, and cut carefully. For curves, make small, precise cuts to avoid gaps. Secure edges with extra soil if needed.
What aftercare is required to establish a healthy lawn?
How often should I water newly-laid turf, and for how long?
Water daily for the first 2 weeks (unless heavy rain occurs). Use a sprinkler or hose with a fine spray to avoid disturbing the turf. Apply 10–15mm of water daily (check by placing a container to measure). Reduce to every 2–3 days after 2 weeks, depending on the weather.
When can I mow the lawn for the first time, and at what height?
Mow after 2–3 weeks once roots are established (tug gently to check). Set the mower to a high setting (4–5cm) to avoid stressing the grass. Never cut more than one-third of the grass height at one time.
Do I need to apply fertiliser, and if so, when and what type should I use?
Apply a pre-turfing fertiliser (high in phosphorus) before laying the turf. After 6–8 weeks, apply a balanced lawn fertiliser (e.g., NPK 10-10-10) to promote growth. Avoid overfeeding, as it can burn the grass. Water in well afterwards if rain doesn’t fall within 2 days of laying.
How can I prevent or address issues such as weeds, pests, or uneven settling?
Weeds: Hand-pull small weeds or use a selective lawn weedkiller after 6 months. Prevent by ensuring thorough pre-laying weed removal.
Pests: Watch for leatherjackets or chafer grubs (common in the UK). Use nematodes in autumn if signs appear (e.g. yellow patches).
Uneven Settling: Top-dress with a sand-soil mix after 6 months to fill dips. Roll lightly if needed.
What are common mistakes to avoid when laying turf?
How can I prevent gaps or overlaps between turf rolls?
Ensure edges touch snugly without stretching or overlapping. Use a knife to trim excess. Check alignment regularly during laying.
What are the risks of laying turf on poorly prepared ground?
Poor preparation leads to uneven surfaces, poor rooting, or waterlogging. Always clear weeds, level the ground and improve the soil if needed.
How do I avoid overwatering or underwatering the turf?
Overwatering causes root rot; underwatering prevents establishment. Use the 10–15mm daily guideline and adjust based on rainfall or soil drainage.
Final Tips
- Order 5–10% extra turf to account for cuts and waste.
- Work quickly to lay turf within 24 hours of delivery, especially in warm weather. If you are unable to do so, unroll the rolls of turf straight away and keep moist.
- Avoid walking on the turf for 2–3 weeks to allow the turf to root.
This questionnaire should help you lay a healthy, long-lasting turf suited to the UK’s climate and conditions. If you want to explore further gardening topics, visit our blog page.
